Beach Casita Living in Yucatán

There is nothing dreamier than waking up by the ocean or seaside and my recent discovery of the sleepy Gulf Coast of Mexico’s Yucatán, lived every bit up to expectations, especially as an isolated refuge in the midst of the pandemic in the middle of December.

Progreso is a port city 40 minutes drive north of Mérida. It is a different kind of paradise from the more popular bohemian destination of Tulum on the Caribbean coast. The appeal of Progreso and its neighboring fishing villages of Telchac, Chicxulub, Chelem, Chuburna and Sisal is the raw and undeveloped quality along with its proximity to explore many of Yucatan’s cultural, archaeological sites and natural attractions.

The Airbnb beach casita we stayed in on the shore of Chelem is a minimalist bungalow where the ocean reaches the walls of the house and almost gives a feeling of being on a boat or a private island. The clean concrete lines of the house and its patio with an infinity plunge pool that extends out to the ocean are reinforced with chukum, a local material made from the resin of a Yucatan plant to protect the wear and tear from the salt water and ocean breeze. The finish resembles limestone and blends in with the natural landscape complemented by the local sand dune vegetation.

The mornings start with a pink hue in the sky reflecting off of the calm low tide crystal clear turquoise waters which rhythmically crash against the casita walls as the tide increases and the sun moves and sets just after bleeding orange rays into the twilight sky.

The casita windows and porch perfectly frame the ocean vista for the ultimate breakfast view, grilling backdrop and cinematography for sunset aperitivos. Some of my beachfront favorite refreshments from the bar are micheladas or sparkling water with fresh lime and lemon during the day and Mezcal Paloma or Vodka lime cocktails for the evening or a simple Victoria or Modela and Flor de Cana & Coke as the sun sets. We grilled steaks, corn, poblano peppers and Volcans, which are crispy tortillas on the grill with a generous layer of melted cheese!

The water is chillier than I expected (though I’ve heard it’s warmer in August and more popular with locals) which I don’t mind, though I’m used to being able to jump in instead of walking in. No matter, from the first morning swim to the last sunset swim and each in between, the ocean refreshes, massages and renews the skin, mind and senses like nothing else!

From here, it is easy to take day excursions into Mérida, the salt ponds and cenotes in the area, the charming towns of Valladolid and Izamal and the Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá and Uxmal among many. Pick and choose from the below recommendations and add your own or just enjoy the simplicity of casita beach living without having to move at all!

DISCOVER

Chichén Itzá

The archeological site of this well preserved Mayan city provides an impressive window into the architectural and astronomical knowledge the Mayan civilization possessed as early as 900 to 1200 AD Chi-ch'en Itzá means “the city on the edge of the well of the Itzáes. Without planning we experienced Chichén Itzá on winter solstice and during Jupiter and Saturn colliding which further added to the energy around the key structures of the site like the Kukulkan pyramid, Thousand Column Temple, the Observatory and Temple of the Jaguar. I am told there is a special light and shadow play during Spring and Fall equinox which adds to the qualification of Chichén Itzá as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There are many other examples of Mayan culture and architecture in the area such as Uxmal and other smaller ruins for each to discover!

VISIT

Pink Lakes

There are several salt ponds such as San Crisanto around the Yucatán peninsula, also known as pink lakes or Las Coloradas. The salty ocean water from the mangroves nearby floods onto hard flat salt plains, creating shallow lagoons. The sun then slowly evaporates this water, leaving fresh sea salt behind. The cotton candy pink color of these lakes comes from the red-colored algae, plankton and brine shrimp that thrive in the salty environment. And flamingos are actually pink because they eat these pink creatures!

Cenotes

Similarly, there are also many cenotes in the area. These are natural sinkholes due to the erosion of limestone bedrock with subterranean water bodies that were said to be used by the ancient Mayan for sacrificial offerings. These are equally popular for visitors to take a refreshing swim and explore the fresh water tunnels surrounded by the gothic caves.

EXPLORE

Mérida

Mérida is a truly rich experience to visit and explore. While I’ve only been able to scratch the surface so far it was not difficult to already have a few favorite destinations in the city. I truly cannot wait to go back but I hope you’ll enjoy a taste of what you can expect in Mérida

Centro is the historical downtown region of Mérida centered around the Plaza Grande with sub-regions like Santa Ana where you can find a mix of restaurants, historic architecture, galleries, markets, shops and boutique hotels.

EAT/DRINK

Pola Gelato Shop Handcrafted gelato in Centro near all of the sights and definitely worth the stop. 467D Calle 55 x 62 polagelato.com IG: @polagelato

Museo de la Gastronomia Yucateca (MUGY) Beautiful hacienda in Centro with open air courtyard housing a museum, restaurant and bar. Calle 62 #466 x 55, Centro mugy.com.mx IG: @mugymx

La Tradicion Local restaurant in North Merdia serving traditional Yucatecan dishes. Calle 60 Norte x 25 latradicionmerida.com IG: @latradicionmid

STAY

Airbnb

Coqui Coqui’s l’Epicerie Mérida boutique hotel from the Perfumeria group
Urbano Ren†als Local home for rent
Casa Vagantes on Airbnb Restored Mérida homes for rent
Hacienda Sac Chich Restored haciendas for holiday rentals
Hacienda Subin Restored ancient hacienda for rent

ARTS

Centro Cultural La Cupula Live performances. Calle 54 #407B x 43, Centro IG: @lacupulamerida lacupulamerida.org

Lagala 56:426 Culture center with shops, cafe and art. Calle 56 #426 x 47, Centro IG: @lagala_merida Lagala56.mx

Plaza Carmesi Meeting place for ideas & culture - home to stores selling artisan designed ceramics and handmade hammocks and a coffee shop. Calle 62 #450 x 53, Centro IG: @plazacarmesi

China Art Objects Gallery Contemporary art gallery in LA and Merida. Calle 80 #492 x 59A, Centro IG: @chinaartobjects Chinaartobjects.com

Fundacion de Artistas Non-profit organization dedicated to the artistic soul in a stunning building with cafe and private event space. Calle 55 #520 x 64, Centro IG: @fundaciondeartistas

SHOP

Paloma van den Akker Paseo de Montejo #498A, Zona Paseo de Montejo, Centro IG: @palomavandenakker palomavandenakker pvda.mx

Mercado Principal y Taller de Arte Maya - Hunab Ku Artisanal market with local products - hammocks, guayaberas, hats and jewelry. Calle 59 #504 x 62, Centro

Casa T’ho Paseo de Montejo #498, Zona Paseo de Montejo, Centro IG: @casatho.concepthouse casatho.com

Imox Concept store in Lagala. Calle 56 #426 x 47, Centro IG: @imox_boutique lagala56.com

Vagantes Local artisanal hats, sandals and home accessories. Calle 55 x 62, Centro IG: @vagantes.mx vagantes.mx

Kukul Boutik Local traditional textiles and prints. Calle 55 #513, Parque Santa Lucia, Centro IG: @kukulboutik kukulboutik.com

Valladolid and the yellow city of Izamal are on my list for my next visit to Yucatán!