Destination: Aegean Roadtrip

Bodrum is not a place I can leave easily which is why I tend to spend my full visit to Turkey there soaking up on the sea, food and charm instead of venturing elsewhere in the Aegean region. On a recent visit however I surprised myself by eagerly planning a road trip to visit the ancient city of Ephesus which became so much more than that.

Leaving early in the morning to beat the August heat as much as possible we set out with a local driver who drove us the 2 1/2 hours to Izmir province where the ancient Greek city of Ephesus is located. Ephesus was built in the 10th century BC on the ionian coast but it wasn't until it came under Roman control in 129 BC that it really flourished. As the city's harbor was silted by the Kucukmenderes river and then partially destroyed by an earthquake, Ephesus lost most of its commercial significance by 614 AD. Frequented often by Mark Anthony and Cleopatra and as capital to Asia Minor under emperor Augustus, Ephesus became the seat of the governor and a major center of commerce making it in its importance and size second only to Rome.

The grand entrance and carefully constructed facade of the library

As one of the largest Roman archeological sites in the eastern Mediterranean, Ephesus' visible ruins bring to life the city's original splendor. The city had one of the most advanced aqueduct systems in the ancient world, with at least six supplying different areas and public bathrooms and baths still visible today. The theater is one of the largest in the ancient world with seating for 25,000. The monument of Hadrian dedicated to the goddess Artemis and the people of Ephesus is perhaps one of the best preserved structures in the city. The grandeur of the ancient city is further apparent along Harbour Street where you can almost feel, hear and see the hustle and bustle of the city. I have always loved markets and the Commercial Agora in the heart of Ephesus is no exception. You can almost imagine it in its heyday as the center of trading but also as the gathering place of the city.

But most impressing of all is the Library of Celcus with its exaggerated entrance and carefully reconstructed facade.

The Marble Road leading from the market to the Library is marked with stones carved with symbolic imagery such as the goddess of Nike which is the universal symbol of victory and the inspiration behind the global Nike brand, Caduceus, two snakes coiled around a staff which is widely used in modern times as the universal symbol of healthcare. The path also guides scholars looking for a break the way to a hidden brothel with a carving of a foot, a cross and a woman.

A visit to the House of the Virgin Mary which is a Catholic shrine located near Ephesus, where it is generally agreed that the Saint John, Saint Paul and the Virgin Mary spent time living in the ancient city of Ephesus, is only a short drive away. Ephesus has had a long tradition of being a center of religious pilgrimage.

For me, and perhaps for many in modern day, the pilgrimage is more about connecting to ancient civilizations and the wonders they built in tune with nature.

Koy Sofrasi in the village of Kirazli is a tasty stop for a local meal on the way back to Bodrum with a great organic farm shop to bring home fresh produce like honey, jam, olives, olive oil, fruit & vegetables.